About this Stay
In July 2019, I stayed for one night at a long-established luxury ryokan in Nagato Yumoto Onsen, located in Nagato City, Yamaguchi Prefecture. This is a record of that stay.
This ryokan is well known as the historic inn where then-Prime Minister Shinzo Abe held a summit meeting with President Vladimir Putin on December 15, 2016.
The lobby was spacious and elegantly designed, with a relaxing lounge area and a large pond inside the building. Located along the Otozure River, the ryokan also allowed guests to enjoy the soothing sound of the flowing stream from the guest rooms and baths.
I also enjoyed luxurious meals prepared with local ingredients.
The ryokan offered a wide variety of freshly baked bread made on-site, all of which were delicious and enjoyable.
There were also shops featuring the famous local Hagi ware pottery and items related to the poetry of Misuzu Kaneko, a children’s poet from the early Showa era who was born in the area. It is a ryokan where guests can also experience the richness of local culture.
Table of Contents
To Nagato Yumoto Onsen
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Nagatoshi Station (1)
To get to Otani Sanso, I traveled from Nagatoshi Station to Nagato-Yumoto Station on JR West’s Mine Line.
This was a sightseeing map of Yamaguchi Prefecture displayed at Nagatoshi Station.
Nagatoshi Station (2)
This is what Nagatoshi Station looked like.
Since it was July, there were Tanabata decorations on display.
A Station Along the Way
This was the platform of one of the stations between Nagatoshi Station and Nagato-Yumoto Station.
Single-Car Train
This is the train bound for Nagato-Yumoto Station. It consists of just a single car.
The train was heading to Asa Station in Yamaguchi Prefecture, the terminal station of the Mine Line.
Inside the Train
This is what the inside of the train looked like.
Nagato-Yumoto Station
I arrived at Nagato-Yumoto Station.
Train Car
This is the train photographed at Nagato-Yumoto Station.
You can also see the train driver in the picture.
Shuttle Vehicle
This is the shuttle vehicle to Otani Sanso. It takes about 15 minutes by car.
Lobby
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Folding Screen and Flower Arrangement
A magnificent folding screen and flower arrangement were displayed near the entrance.
Indoor Garden
This is part of the lobby area inside the ryokan.
A tsukubai stone basin was placed in the indoor garden, which was filled with natural light.
Ceiling and Wall Design
These are the Japanese-style paintings and lighting fixtures on the ceiling wall of the first-floor lobby.
The lighting resembles folding fans, doesn’t it? The vertical lines radiate outward, and even the shape of the light looks like an open fan. You can really sense the attention to detail here.
View Toward the Garden
Looking toward the garden from the lobby, you can see a waterfall flowing down.
Check-in
This was the view inside the ryokan from the sofa where I sat during check-in.
Sofa Area
This was also one of the sofa seats used during check-in.
It was a very comfortable and spacious area to relax in.
The entire ryokan was maintained with exceptional care, which made it feel very refined.
Welcome Drink (1)
This was the matcha tea and uiro sweets served at check-in.
I enjoyed them while looking out at the waterfall and pond in front of me.
Welcome Drink (2)
This is a close-up photo of the matcha tea and uiro.
The uiro was “Kuro Uiro” made by the Yamaguchi confectionery shop Mihorido, flavored with brown sugar.
I believe the tea bowl is Hagi ware pottery. The lacquered plate holding the uiro may be Ouchi lacquerware.
Lobby Lounge (1)
This is the lobby lounge called “Sansoka.”
It has a beautiful and spacious design. As you can see, there is even a pond arranged inside the building.
Lobby Lounge (2)
This is another view of the lobby lounge named “Sansoka.”
The large pond inside the lobby creates a very relaxing atmosphere.
There is also a mezzanine level.
Lobby Lounge (3)
This is another area of the lobby lounge.
It is a space where couples, families, and friends traveling together can sit back and enjoy conversation in comfort.
Lobby Lounge (4)
I walked a little way up the stairs overlooking the pond in the lobby lounge and took this photo from there.
You can also see the bar counter.
Lobby Lounge (5)
This is another sofa area photographed from the staircase.
There was a family relaxing here after enjoying the baths.
Guest Room
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Overall Room View
This is the guest room.
At the back of the room, there is a slightly lowered sofa area with carpeting. I think it was designed to be very comfortable and relaxing.
Sofa Area
This is the view from the sofa seating area facing the opposite side of the room.
Tokonoma Alcove
This is another angle of the guest room.
In the tokonoma alcove, there was a hanging scroll with the phrase: “True enjoyment can be found within a single bowl.”
Table on the Tatami Floor
This is the table and chairs on the tatami floor, photographed from the sofa area.
View Outside (1)
This is the view from the guest room.
Right in front of the ryokan flows the Otozure River, and a railway line runs along the opposite bank.
View Outside (2)
This is another angle of the scenery outside.
View Outside (3)
This is the view you can enjoy while sitting on the sofa.
Breakfast Ticket
These are the dinner and breakfast tickets.
Normally, both dinner and breakfast are served in the restaurant, but we requested to have dinner served in our room instead.
Breakfast was enjoyed in the restaurant.
Guest Room Entrance
This is the entrance door to the guest room, viewed from the hallway.
Public Bath
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Tatami Space
This is a small four-tatami-mat space located on the way to the large public bath.
Perhaps it is meant as a resting area, or maybe it can also be used as a tea ceremony room.
Sofa Overlooking the River
This sofa was placed near the large public bath where guests can enjoy a view of the river.
Balcony
This is the view outside from the balcony.
The roof of the lower floor is covered with grass, which looks very beautiful.
Inside the Ryokan
This is another view inside the ryokan, photographed on the way to the large public bath.
Near the Large Public Bath
We are getting close to the large public bath.
Entrance
This is the entrance to the large public bath.
It is called “Seseragi no Yu” (Murmuring Stream Bath).
The calligraphy of the character “ゆ” (yu, meaning hot water/bath) is beautifully done.
Rest Area (1)
This is a rest area located near the large public bath.
After taking a bath, guests can relax here and enjoy cold tea and other refreshments.
Rest Area (2)
This is the tea service machine located in the rest area.
Terrace Outside the Rest Area (1)
This is the terrace seating area outside the rest area.
The flowing river viewed from the terrace creates a wonderfully refreshing atmosphere.
The name “Seseragi no Yu” probably comes from the soothing stream visible from the bath area.
Terrace Outside the Rest Area (2)
This is the flowing river.
The current is quite strong.
Shops
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Hagi Ware and Kaneko Misuzu
This area is called the “Hagi & Misuzu Corner.”
- ・ Hagi ware pottery
- ・ Kaneko Misuzu
- (Editor’s Note)
- ＊ Hagi ware is pottery produced mainly in Hagi City, Yamaguchi Prefecture, though there are kilns in Nagato City as well. Its soft texture and appearance make Hagi ware tea bowls especially popular among tea ceremony enthusiasts.
- ＊ Kaneko Misuzu was a nursery rhyme poet from what is now Nagato City in Yamaguchi Prefecture, active from the late Taisho period to the early Showa period.
Ouchi Dolls
These are “Ouchi Dolls” sold in the souvenir shop.
(Editor’s Note)
The Ouchi clan was a powerful feudal family that ruled parts of the Chugoku region from the Muromachi period through the Sengoku period. Ouchi dolls are said to have originated when Ouchi Hiroyo, the clan’s great restorer, invited doll makers from Kyoto to create dolls for his wife from the capital. Today, they are one of Yamaguchi Prefecture’s representative souvenirs.
THE BAKERY
This is “THE BAKERY.”
Otani Sanso’s bakery sells authentic bread freshly baked in the ryokan’s in-house bakery workshop.
Japanese Sake “Toyo Bijin”
This is the Japanese sake “Toyo Bijin” that was served during the meeting between President Putin and Prime Minister Abe in 2016.
(Editor’s Note)
Toyo Bijin is produced by Sumikawa Brewery, a long-established brewery in Hagi City that celebrated its 100th anniversary in 2021. The brand name “Toyo Bijin” (“Oriental Beauty”) was reportedly chosen by the brewery’s first owner in memory of his late wife. In 2019, “Toyo Bijin Junmai Daiginjo Itten” was also selected to be served in JAL First Class. (From the Sumikawa Brewery website)
Akamoku Tsukudani
This is “Akamoku Tsukudani.”
It was apparently also served at the dinner during the meeting between Prime Minister Abe and President Putin.
(Editor’s Note)
Akamoku is a type of seaweed sometimes referred to as a “superfood.” At Otani Sanso, locally harvested akamoku from the Sea of Japan is simmered into tsukudani with Japanese pepper berries.
Dinner
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Menu
This is the menu for today’s dinner.
It is a luxurious menu prepared with a wide variety of carefully selected ingredients.
Appetizers
This was the dinner served in our room.
The appetizers and dipping sauces for the shabu-shabu were already set on the table.
- ・ Sesame tofu
- ・ Junsai vinegar dish (with fresh sea urchin, shrimp, and lotus root)
- ・ Octopus with egg-yolk vinegar sauce
View During Dinner
This is the view of the forest outside, photographed while sitting on the tatami floor and enjoying dinner in the room.
Sashimi
Sashimi was also served.
- ・ (Back right) Kuruma shrimp and squid
- ・ (Front) Thinly sliced tiger pufferfish (torafugu)
Sparkling Wine
For drinks, we enjoyed sparkling wine.
Beef Shabu-Shabu
This is wagyu beef loin for shabu-shabu.
- Vegetables in the hot pot:
- Shiitake mushrooms, yuba, carrots, eggplant, and cabbage
Small Dishes
These are two small side dishes.
- ・ Deep-fried kijihata grouper
- Taro, green beans, and zucchini
- ・ Simmered abalone
- Winter melon and snow peas
Fruit
This was the fruit dessert.
- ・ Watermelon and melon
Vacuum Flask for Water
This is the vacuum flask containing drinking water.
There was ice inside the flask, so the water stayed wonderfully cold.
Breakfast
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Restaurant Entrance
This is the sign at the entrance of the restaurant where we had breakfast the next morning.
The restaurant is called “Zuiun.”
Wine Cellar
This is the wine cellar inside the restaurant.
The presentation and display are truly impressive and very sophisticated.
Restaurant Seating
We have taken our seats at the breakfast restaurant table.
Buffet Corner
This is the breakfast buffet corner.
French Toast, Yogurt, and More
This section features French toast, plain yogurt, fruit, and more.
Egg Dishes and Pasta
This is the section for egg dishes and pasta.
- ・ Sausages
- ・ Scrambled eggs
- ・ Japanese-style pasta
Yacon Somen and More
This is the Japanese side dish section, centered around yacon somen noodles.
- ・ Senzaki fish cake, hijiki seaweed, dressed komatsuna greens
- ・ Yacon somen noodles with noodle dipping sauce
Bread Corner (1)
This is the bread section. Everything looks delicious.
Since it says “THE BAKERY,” the breads must have been baked here at the ryokan’s own bakery.
Hotel bread, noix raisin bread, panini (ham and egg), Ogura bean paste bread,
mini croissants, mini chocolate croissants, and Camembert cheese bread.
Bread Corner (2)
This is another part of the bread section.
- ・ Blueberry cream cheese pie, apple pie
- ・ Anno sweet potato pie, butter French bread (salted)
Breakfast Plate
This is the breakfast I selected.
I still vividly remember how delicious everything tasted.
- ・ Mushroom omelet
- ・ Yacon somen, Japanese-style pasta, cherry tomatoes
- ・ Prosciutto, white mushrooms, dressed komatsuna greens
- ・ Various breads
- ・ French toast, Japanese rolled omelet, hijiki seaweed, pickled plum, mashed potatoes, and more
